LG Refrigerator Not Cooling – Causes & Fixes

Quick answer: An lg refrigerator not cooling is most often caused by dirty condenser coils, a blocked evaporator fan, or incorrect temperature settings — all of which you can check yourself in under 30 minutes.

1. Incorrect Temperature Settings

Someone may have accidentally adjusted the controls, or a power blip may have reset them. LG recommends 37 °F (3 °C) for the fridge and 0 °F (−18 °C) for the freezer.

  1. Press the Fridge and Freezer buttons on the control panel and confirm the set temperatures.
  2. If the display shows “OF F” or “Demo Mode,” press and hold the Fridge button for 5 seconds to exit demo mode.
  3. Close the doors fully and wait 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize before further diagnosis.

2. Dirty or Blocked Condenser Coils

Dust-clogged condenser coils can’t release heat efficiently, forcing the compressor to work harder and reducing cooling. This is one of the most common reasons for an lg refrigerator not cooling.

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet.
  2. Pull the unit away from the wall and remove the rear lower access panel (two or four screws).
  3. Use a coil-cleaning brush or vacuum with a narrow attachment to remove dust and debris from the condenser coils.
  4. Replace the panel, push the unit back, and restore power.

3. Evaporator Fan Motor Not Running

The evaporator fan circulates cold air from the freezer into the fresh-food compartment; if it fails, the fridge warms up even though the freezer may still be cold.

  1. Open the freezer and listen for fan noise — silence or a loud grinding sound indicates a problem.
  2. Press and hold the freezer door switch to simulate a closed door; if the fan still doesn’t spin, it likely needs replacing.
  3. Unplug the refrigerator, remove the freezer back panel (several screws), and locate the evaporator fan motor.
  4. Disconnect the wire harness and test the motor windings with a multimeter — no continuity confirms a failed motor.
  5. Install the replacement motor, reassemble the panel, and restore power.

4. Frosted-Over Evaporator Coils (Defrost System Failure)

If the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost timer fails, ice builds up on the evaporator coils and blocks airflow, causing the refrigerator to stop cooling.

  1. Remove the freezer’s back interior panel to inspect the evaporator coils — a solid block of ice confirms a defrost problem.
  2. As a temporary fix, unplug the unit and leave both doors open for 24–48 hours to thaw the coils completely.
  3. Test the defrost heater with a multimeter for continuity; replace if open.
  4. Test the defrost thermostat the same way; replace if it shows no continuity when cold.
  5. If both test good, the defrost control board may be faulty — see a technician for board diagnosis.

5. Condenser Fan Motor Failure

The condenser fan pulls air over the condenser coils and compressor to dissipate heat; without it, the compressor overheats and cooling stops.

  1. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the rear lower access panel.
  2. Locate the condenser fan near the compressor and try spinning the blade by hand — it should turn freely with no wobble.
  3. Test the motor with a multimeter; if there is no continuity, replace the motor.
  4. Reassemble, restore power, and verify the fan runs when the compressor cycles on.

6. Faulty Compressor or Start Relay

The compressor is the heart of the cooling system; a failed start relay is a cheaper, easier-to-test component that can prevent the compressor from starting at all.

  1. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the rear lower access panel to access the compressor.
  2. Pull the start relay off the compressor side terminal — it unplugs without tools on most LG models.
  3. Shake the relay near your ear; a rattling sound indicates a burnt-out relay. Replace it first before condemning the compressor.
  4. Test the relay with a multimeter between the two terminal sockets — no continuity confirms failure.
  5. If a new relay doesn’t restore cooling and the compressor hums or stays silent, the compressor itself may have failed. Contact a certified technician, as compressor replacement involves refrigerant handling.

For model-specific wiring diagrams and official guidance, visit the LG Refrigerator Support & Help Library.

Frequently asked questions

How long should I wait after plugging in my LG refrigerator before it cools down?

After plugging in or moving an LG refrigerator, allow at least 24 hours for temperatures to fully stabilize. Avoid loading it with large amounts of warm food during this initial period, as that adds extra heat load and extends the time to reach target temperatures.

Why is my LG freezer cold but the refrigerator section is warm?

This classic symptom almost always points to a blocked evaporator fan motor or frost-covered evaporator coils. Cold air is produced in the freezer and shared with the fridge via the fan; if airflow is interrupted, the freezer stays cold while the fridge warms up. Work through causes 3 and 4 above first.

Does an lg refrigerator not cooling issue void my warranty?

No — a cooling failure is a covered defect under LG’s standard limited warranty (typically one year parts and labor, with a longer warranty on the linear compressor on qualifying models). DIY repairs on sealed-system components like the compressor may void warranty coverage, so check your warranty terms before attempting those repairs.

What does the LG error code “Er FF” or “Er rF” mean?

“Er FF” indicates a freezer fan error and “Er rF” indicates a refrigerator fan error — both mean the control board is not detecting the fan motor running. Start by checking for ice buildup around the fan blades and test the fan motor for continuity as described in cause 3. If the motor is fine, the issue may be the fan motor wiring harness or the main control board.

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