Dryer Not Spinning But Heating? Fix It Fast

1. Broken Drive Belt (Most Common Cause)

The drive belt wraps around the drum and motor pulley to make the drum turn. When it snaps, the drum stops spinning while the heating element continues to work normally.

1. Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet before doing anything else.
2. Open the dryer door and try to spin the drum by hand—if it spins with almost no resistance, the belt is almost certainly broken.
3. Remove the top panel (usually secured by two screws at the rear or hidden clips at the front) and then the front panel to gain access to the drum.
4. Locate the drive belt wrapped around the drum and idler pulley assembly. A broken belt will be lying loose in the cabinet.
5. Thread the new belt around the drum (ribbed side against the drum), then loop it around the idler pulley and motor pulley in a Z- or S-pattern as shown in your model’s service diagram.
6. Reassemble the panels, plug in the dryer, and run a short cycle to confirm the drum spins.

2. Worn or Broken Idler Pulley

The idler pulley keeps tension on the drive belt. If its wheel seizes or the arm breaks, the belt goes slack and the drum stops turning even though the heater still runs.

1. Unplug the dryer.
2. Access the cabinet as described in Step 1 above.
3. Inspect the idler pulley wheel—spin it by hand. It should rotate smoothly and quietly. A rough, squeaky, or locked wheel means it needs replacement.
4. Slide the idler arm off its pivot post (or remove its mounting screw, depending on design) and detach the old pulley.
5. Snap or bolt the new idler pulley assembly onto the pivot post.
6. Re-route the drive belt around the new pulley and reassemble.

3. Faulty Door Switch

Most dryers use a door switch to cut power to the motor when the door is open. A failed switch can trick the dryer into thinking the door is always open, stopping the drum but not the heat on models where circuits are wired separately.

1. Unplug the dryer.
2. Locate the door switch—it’s typically mounted inside the door frame opening, held by one or two screws.
3. Press the switch actuator (the small button or lever) by hand. You should hear a distinct click. No click often indicates a failed switch.
4. Unplug the switch’s wire connector and test it with a multimeter set to continuity. With the button pressed, you should get continuity; released, you should not (for a normally-open switch). No change = bad switch.
5. Unscrew the old switch, plug in the new switch, and secure it with the original screws.
6. Restore power and test.

4. Failed Drive Motor

The drive motor spins the drum directly. If it fails mechanically or electrically, the drum will not turn, but the heating circuit (which runs on a separate circuit) can still produce heat.

1. Unplug the dryer.
2. Access the motor by removing the front or rear panel (varies by brand design).
3. Check that the motor’s wiring harness connectors are fully seated—a loose connector can mimic a motor failure.
4. Try to rotate the motor shaft by hand. A seized shaft confirms a mechanical failure.
5. Set a multimeter to resistance and test the motor windings across the run terminals. An open reading (OL) indicates an electrical failure.
6. If the motor is faulty, remove the belt and idler pulley, disconnect all wiring, remove the mounting bolts, and swap in the replacement motor.
7. Reassemble, restore power, and test.

5. Worn Drum Support Rollers or Slides

Drum rollers and front drum slides (glides) support the drum as it turns. When they wear flat or seize, the drum can bind or resist turning, effectively stalling while the heater continues to operate.

1. Unplug the dryer.
2. Remove the front and/or rear panel to expose the drum support rollers (usually two at the rear, sometimes two at the front as well).
3. Lift the drum slightly and spin each roller by hand. Rollers that are flat-spotted, wobbling, or stiff need replacement.
4. Remove the roller’s retaining clip or nut, slide the old roller off the shaft, and press the new roller on.
5. While the cabinet is open, inspect the front drum slides (felt or plastic strips at the front bulkhead). Replace if worn down to bare metal or plastic backing.
6. Reassemble and run the dryer to confirm smooth, quiet drum rotation.

6. Defective Start Switch or Timer (Dryer Not Spinning but Heating After Starting)

On older mechanical-timer dryers, a worn start switch or a failed timer contact can prevent voltage from reaching the motor circuit while the heat circuit remains energized. This is less common but worth checking if all mechanical parts look fine.

1. Unplug the dryer.
2. Remove the control panel (usually two screws at each end of the panel) to access the timer and start switch.
3. Locate the start switch (often a push-button or a secondary contact on the cycle selector knob).
4. Test the start switch for continuity with a multimeter while pressing it. No continuity = replace the switch.
5. If the start switch tests good, advance the timer manually through the cycle positions and test continuity across the motor terminals at each position. A dead contact in the motor circuit means the timer needs replacement.
6. Disconnect the wiring harness, remove the retaining clip or screws, and install the new component. Transfer wires one at a time to avoid miswiring.

For additional guidance on safe dryer repair procedures, see the U.S. Department of Energy’s clothes dryer resource page.

Frequently asked questions